"Defoliation" A High Yielding Pruning Technique Discussed.

I found this write up by a user at ICMAG.COM named k33fTr33z about how he selectively takes fan leaves off of his marijuana plants to open up more ways for light to penetrate. This post talks about how the light penetrates deeper into the canopy of plants to create more bud sites, ultimately increasing yield.

(You can grow a plant like this through "defoliation" or selective pruning)

"This subject is bound to raise a lot of disagreement. Please relate experience and photos.

Lets start by defining "defoliation" in the context of this technique. The term has negative connotations as Cannabis has been the target of defoliation by the Feds using Paraquat chemical defoliants. This is not what this is about.

This technique is about leaf removal by hand. It is employed to relieve shading in crowded conditions. It is a substitute to the popular technique of removing lower branches.

Defoliation encourages branching in vegging plants in the same way as nipping the leader. The benefit of this technique is that the leader is retained to continue to create branches. It also shortens nodal length creating a more compact specimen.

This is how the following plants are capable of yielding as much as 12 oz. in an allotted space measuring 32" cubed.

Leaves are removed starting in veg stage when they are about 6" tall with a couple of sets of fans. Leaves are removed again every 2-3 weeks or whenever things get a little shady.

3 decades of experience with this technique reveal that bud growth benefits more from light exposure than whether the corresponding fan leaf is present.

The idea with this method is to not remove any bud sites like in the aforementioned technique of lower branch removal. Bud sites produce bud. Do not remove. This method allows light to penetrate to all bud sites, not just the top buds.

This technique should not be done on plants that have not been prepared by defoliation from the beginning.

Observers will be shocked at the nakedness of a fully plucked skeleton of a barely flowering shrub. They will be even more shocked at the results after a few weeks. These results will debunk any insistence that big shading leaves are necessary for good bud production. Besides are we producing buds or leaf.

32"x32"x32" is all the space allowed. Before and after putting scythe to trunk. Intensive defoliation is the rule."

TehBosh: Some argue that the less foliage you have, the less photosynthesis the plant will do because the leaves are the main transport of energy and light. However, with results and pictures like this, it is definitely a method of pruning that is worth a try. Simply take off fan leaves that shadow potential bud sites throughout the plant, and note the results. (Photos courtesy of k33ftr33z)

Make Cannabis Butter with your Trimmings!

So you just harvested your crop, and you have all this extra plant matter laying around. What do you do with it? You can throw it away, OR you can make cannabutter! Cannabis butter is butter that has all the extracted THC and other cannabinoids from marijuana and is great for edible purposes. Cannabutter provides a great body high while alleviating pain and other symptoms. You can make it from trim or from the marijuana bud itself.

This video from the Wonderful World of Cannabis shows you how to make delicious cannabutter with your trim (extra leaf matter)  from the bud. You can also use the actual bud, but you don't have to use as much as you would with trim just because there is more THC in the bud than the trim.

Help your plants grow with your bladder!

(THANKS TO BUDDYNUGS AT HG420.INFO FOR THIS WRITE-UP) 

 (You can grow a plant like this with just some water and your bladder.)

Can I use My Urine as a Fertilizer?

Sure you can. In fact Sweden has tested a full scale urine ‘recycling’ program. Among their findings they have discovered that urine is a complete fertilizer for farm use, lowers the environmental impact of wastewater, improves recirculation of the 3 main nutrients, and that the hygienic risks are negligible if handled properly. Nature has been making use of urine for centuries before humans had even mastered the art of agriculture. Animal wastes contain nutrients that plants needs, and in return they provide us with nutrients we need. It is a circle that has been broken only in recent years, but before you go using your pots as a urinal you will need to be aware of how to use your urine. DO NOT PEE DIRECTLY ON OR AROUND YOUR PLANTS. You will burn them. The following will detail everything that you need to know to be successful.

Use in Soil

Pure concentrated urine will burn your plants; it must first be diluted with water. Typically a ratio of 1 part urine to 10 parts water is effective. Some have gotten away with a slightly higher ratio on unusually hungry girls. It is recommended that you do not exceed 1:10, even though a nutrient burn with urine is rare, the smell can be unpleasant, and salts will build quickly, at higher concentrations. For younger plants start with a ratio of 1:20-1:30 and work your way up. As always do not fertilize germinating seedlings. Wait until the cotyledons (little round leaves) have fallen off before beginning any fertilizer regiment. Also it is not needed every water, every other or every third is sufficient. Let your plant do the talking, if she is a nice dark green then lay off a little, use a weaker solution and lower frequency, if she is getting on the yellow side then step up the strength a bit. Note: Urine can have a high salt content, depending upon your diet. I recommend that when you water with plain water, you allow some run off (approximately 1/8-1/4 volume of your pot) and toss it, this should rid your soil of excess salts.

Use in Hydro

About 8 ounces (1cup) for every 3 gall or reservoir water has been effective (thanks foto) but you should adjust according to your conditions, plant needs, and smell issues. The nitrogen in urine (ammonia and urea) must first be consumed by bacteria as food. The bacteria then store the nitrogen in the bacterial protoplasm. As the Bacteria die, they liberate the stored nitrogen as nitrate, sort of like a time release capsule, to be taken up by the plants. In soil this is no problem but in hydro setups there may not be enough bacteria culture to breakdown the urea and ammonia. Therefore it will be a good idea to drip your Res water through a porous material that can support a bacteria culture such as lava rocks, ceramic bio filter material, foam, sponge. It is up to you; it does not need to be fancy just able to support beneficial bacteria. This step may not be required if your root mass is large enough or if you have a trickle system through a porous medium like rockwool or coco. To get a good start on your bacteria culture you can get some bio-filter booster liquid from any aquarium shop. This liquid contains "good" bacteria that will help you develop a thriving population use as directed (usually a few drops per gal.)

(Urine is a great fertilizer for vegetative growth of your cannabis plants.)

Nutrient Levels (approximation, will vary according to diet)
Alanine, total ..... 38 mg/day
Arginine, total ..... 32 mg/day
Ascorbic acid ..... 30 mg/day
Allantoin ..... 12 mg/day
Amino acids, total ..... 2.1 g/day
Bicarbonate ..... 140 mg/day
Biotin ..... 35 mg/day
Calcium ..... 23 mg/day
Creatinine ..... 1.4 mg/day
Cystine ..... 120 mg/day
Dopamine ..... 0.40 mg/day
Epinephrine ..... 0.01 mg/day
Folic acid ..... 4 mg/day
Glucose ..... 100 mg/day
Glutamic acid ..... 308 mg/day
Glycine ..... 455 mg/day
Inositol ..... 14 mg/day
Iodine ..... 0.25 mg/day
Iron ..... 0.5 mg/day
Lysine, total ..... 56 mg/day
Magnesium ..... 100 mg/day
Manganese ..... 0.5 mg/day
Methionine, total ..... 10 mg/day
Nitrogen, total ..... 15 g/day
Ornithine ..... 10 mg/day
Pantothenic acid ..... 3 mg/day
Phenylalanine ..... 21 mg/day
Phosphorus, organic ..... 9 mg/day
Potassium ..... 2.5 mg/day
Proteins, total ..... 5 mg/day
Riboflavin ..... 0.9 mg/day
Tryptophan, total ..... 28 mg/day
Tyrosine, total ..... 50 mg/day
Urea ..... 24.5 mg/day
Vitamin B6 ..... 100 mg/day
Vitamin B12 ..... 0.03 mg/day
Zinc ..... 1.4 mg/day

Approximately 2 liters is excreted a day.

Human urine is a great source of auxin, in fact one of the most potent auxins can be found in human urine; indol-3-acetic acid or IAA. Among many things auxin is known to stimulate flower growth, promote ethylene production, and stimulate root growth.

I have gone though an entire grow using urine without any deficiencies, but many feel that during flowering your phosphorus levels are too low. If you desire, a bloom fertilizer may be used in tandem during the flowering phase.

A tea made with the Russian comfrey plant (3.6-1-10.6) is an excellent organic bloom fertilizer for those of us who do not wish to use chemicals at any step. Also a tea of bone meal, or bone meal in your soil mix is probably the best way to add Phosphorus.

In addition I would, and have, cut back on the amount of urine used in the flower period (both frequency and concentration). There is some evidence that Nitrogen in excess will inhibit flower growth, and increase your 12/12 time.

Your body can only absorb about 10-15% of a multivitamin/mineral pill the rest is flushed out with your urine. Taking a multivitamin/mineral about 3 hours before your urine collection can give you many vital micro nutrients.

A balanced and healthy diet means balanced and healthy urine. Keep fit and eat well and you should have nutrient rich urine and happy plants.

PH

The PH value for human urine can range anywhere from 5 and 8.5 but most often is found between 5.5 and 7.5 in healthy individuals with a balanced diet. A value of 6 is average. High protein diets can lower PH (more acidic) and Vegetarian diets raise PH values (more alkaline). Urinary infection will increase PH value. Test your PH and lower it (coffee, lemon juice, or vinegar are great organic PH downs) if any higher that 6, especially if in a hydro system, or increase your protein consumption. If the soil you are using is fairly acidic, like peat moss you will want to make sure you are not dropping it too low with acidic urine; dolomite lime can help you buffer this up, or increase your vegetable intake and lower your protein.

Pro's:

It Works

Tried and true. In my (and a few others) opinion it works as good as commercial fertilizers when used properly. A side by side clone to clone test has not yet been done (to my knowledge), but there is no question that urine produces healthy, frosty, dank nugs, as good as anything out there.

Cheap

You can't beat free can you? Not likely. Weather you are growing for pleasure or profit saving money is something that I think we all desire. If you have no problem with spending the money, then go right ahead. Call it ghetto if you want, I call it natures gift, and I intend to make the best of it.

Available

It’s like fertilizer on tap. No hasty visits to the hydro/garden shop. No “I’ll have to do without for a while”. It’s always there when you need it.

Environmentally friendly

Many of us would like to preserve the earth. Well organic fertilizers are the way to go if this is part of your ethos. Chemical fertilizers are produced from petroleum products, natural gas, and coal. Minerals are made more soluble with acids. After the compounds are used by the plant the contaminants left over in the soil can become poisonous and over time can leave the land depleted and ‘dead’. Using organic fertilizers closes a cycle of life that has existed for millennia. We feed the plants and they feed us, much like the oxygen and carbon dioxide cycle.

Compost

Urine in your compost pile is probably the best way to get extra Nitrogen into your mix.

Con's:

Salt content

Human urine will contain various salts. Depending on diet your urine can contain up a max of 2.2% salt, this is because the human kidney cannot concentrate salts to greater than 2.2%. On average salt content will be about 30g/L Total dissolved solids constitute about 5% of urine volume. As previously stated it will be to your benefit to allow some run off when watering and toss it, this will rid your soil of excess salts.

Infections and parasites

Hygienic risks are negligible, unless the urine comes in contact with pathogens after leaving the body. The urine of a healthy person is sterile in the bladder. If you have a urinary tract, or kidney infection your urine will contain bacteria that can infect others. It is quite impossible for the infection to be passed through the plant, bud or smoke. If you are sick the majority of pathogens that can transmit disease will die within 24 hours of leaving the body. Infections will increase both your salt content and PH values, and can contain bacteria that consume nitrates.

Imprecise

Urine fertilizing is not an exact science. Exact nutrient levels and concentrations cannot be accurately established without the proper equipment. Notwithstanding some trial and error is necessary in every fertilizer regiment. Certain strains can have differing tolerances, different growing conditions and methods vary in their ability to deliver nutrients reliably.

(Photos courtesy of TehBosh)

Harvest Time! Or is it?

I have used this post at rollitup.org's forums every time I think my cannabis plants are ready for harvest. This is SpruceZeus's take on harvesting. It explains that marijuana plants should be given maximum time to ripen before harvest for the fullest effect. Take a look:

Is it ready yet?: SpruceZeus's take on marijuana ripeness.

This is by no means meant to be the definitive guide to knowing when to chop your plant, only my views on the subject.

I'm personally of the opinion that 90% of the growers on this site (And probably in general) harvest too early. By letting the plants go a little longer you're ensuring that they've plumped as much as they're going to.

Despite popular opinion to the contrary(and don't fool yourself, the jury is still out on this one) Recent studies have shown;contrary to what was previously believed, that THC itself (And its predecessor THC-A) are quite guilty of causing the confusion and drowsiness associated with burnout and other cannabinoids (our friend CBN, and a handful of others) to be the catalyst (along with THC) to being 'high' rather than 'baked'

Regardless, whether or not there is any substance to the aforementioned study, it's easy to get the high you want.

If you want a soaring 'cerebral' high: Get yourself a tropical Sativa that contains a high level of THC-V and grow it until it is ripe. If you want the narcotic couch-lock stone, grow a rugged Indica until it's ripe. Notice a pattern of growing it until it's ripe? It's a really good rule to live by. OF course we have to remember that there is more to a good high than just THC. At last count there are at least 66 cannabinoids, and we don't know what most of them do.

Now a lot of people will tell you that you should harvest based on the color of your trichomes. But (again, in my opinion) that is far too simplistic and there are too many variables to make that an effective strategy. I've made that point a million times before and I'm not going to re-hash it here, (maybe just a bit) but rest assured there is more to the picture than just trichome color.

A ripe marijuana plant will be filled in, will have an amber tinge to the buds. The pistils should have browned (or orange-d) off and receded into the buds. The seed bracts should be swollen and the trichomes should be sticking straight out with bulbous ends. Also, because you're coming close to the end of plant's life cycle, the leaves should have yellowed off and started to die.

(One of my plants, 3 days before chop-chop.)

Another very important reason to let your plants mature is Terpenoid production. Terpenes are responsible for a lot of the complex (and enjoyable) flavors that cannabis produces. Some of the most intense flavors are produced on the "down-slope" of cannabis's life cycle. My personal experience with this first came when i was growing GH Cheese (Greenhouse Seeds Cheese). One of the plants I harvested at 8 weeks and it tasted pretty nice and had pretty dense buds. The other I grew until about 9 1/2 weeks and it had most amazing, sour, skunky, delicious taste with rock hard buds.

Here is my interpretation (and maybe exaggeration) of a scenario i see all too often...

Quote:noob mcboob:

(I'm a new grower and I've been reading all this great information about when it's time to harvest. There's pictures and everything!!!

Look at my trichomes, they look nice and milky with a touch of amber just like the ones in the picture that says its harvest time now!!!)

So i just have one question....

Does this look ready to you?

That plant is 4 weeks into 12/12 (flowering). Granted not all of the trichomes are that far along. And most people aren't going to harvest weed that looks like this. But my point with this is that you have to look at the big picture. Stop being so scientific and start being practical. I'm not anti knowledge, I just cant stand these "rules" that more often than not lead people down the wrong path.

Lets cut through the bull**** and spread good information in a way that is not so absolute. Or at very least explain the growth stages of cannabis making sure to mention that the pistils should have receded back into the bud before you chop. Regardless of trichome color.

If I could offer one piece of advice on picking the right time to harvest, it's all about watching the pistils. Not so much the color, but the movement. They should have receded into the bud and the seed bracts should be swollen.

It should look less like this...

 And more like this.

Trust me when I say, it is worth the excruciating wait. 

(Submitted from SpruceZeus on rollitup.org. I take no credit in the contrivance of this post rather show it to others.)

Nutrient deficiency / Overdose of Cannabis Explained.

I found these informative scans of a book about nutrient problems dealing with Cannabis. Thanks to Klutter of Grasscity.org for providing these.

This information is a must so you do not over/under fertilize your precious plants.

Get to Germinating already!

(A beautiful seed almost ready to be plucked and germinated!)

1. First, make sure that the seeds themselves are of quality. In other words make sure they are a reasonable size, not small like a pea of couscous. Some seeds aren't brown, but most seeds that are pale green and near white didn't have time to fully develop their genetics, so it might have a harder time to germinate, not to mention it has a better chance of being a male. Make sure the seed is hard and not easily smash-able. Also make sure the little knotted hole at the bottom of the seed is not damaged, as in it has a perfect circle volcano like depression.




2. When you think you have some good seeds to germinate, you have the option of "scraping" the outer layer of the seed a little to make it easier to absorb water. You do this simply by getting a nail file and gently brushing it on the surface of the seed a couple times. There are other ways to scrape seeds. But in reality, you really don't have to do this. As long as you picked decent seeds, they will germinate. Marijuana seeds retain genetics and germination capabilities far after they are initially created; several years in fact.


3. If you chose to scrape the seeds or not, prepare to germinate by getting a paper towel that you can fold a few times. Before you fold your paper towel, lightly soak it with water to where it's wet, but not ripping. Fold the towel a few times to where it's thick enough to snugly fit the seeds into the last fold. After folding to this point, soak the towel again, but with a little more water and gently squeeze the excess water out.


4. With your seeds, place them into the towel so that they are submerged in the wet paper towel. Make sure there is enough water for the seeds to absorb. It would probably be easier to unfold the towel first, put the seeds on one side of the two sided towel and then fold the other side down snugly and securely.


5. Once the seeds are in the towel, put the towel in a dark place to where no light can reach it. Make sure to put the towel in a mug or something that won't allow it to get outside particles in. Place it in a dark area, to where no light can reach it and leave it alone. Check every 6 hours or so to make sure the paper towel is still damp and re-wet it if it dries up. Check the seeds in 24-48 hours and they should have had tap roots develop and pop out of the seed.

(These seeds are definitely ready to be planted.)

6. When ready to plant the seed, place the seed with the tap root facing down into your medium and cover it with about a little less than 1/8 inch of soil. You want light to reach the surface of the seed to help it complete its germination stage. Be sure to keep the medium nice and moist to give the little seedling its life. After a few days the seed will crack and develop its first set of leaves. After that, just keep them watered and they'll be growing into trees like no time. Just be sure to keep the light on them for at least 16 hours during the 24 hour day.

(A germinated seedling that is on it's way to full on vegetative growth.)

TIPS:

• You don't have to germinate seeds with a paper towel. You can simply put seedlings in a cup of water and put them away for 24-72 hours. However, the paper towel method in my opinion, gives you a more successful germination rate.

(All photos in this article are from images.google.com)

Perpetual harvests of cannabis in more detail.

This article is how to have a constant harvest of medical marijuana for a steady supply of medicine for patients with ailments. Keep in mind this is the absolutely bare minimum number of plants being used and assuming the plant flowers in 8 weeks respectively. This method makes it work for 1 plant every week making 9 plants the minimum for a perpetual 1 plant a week harvest.

MATERIALS:

• A Vegetative stage grow room.

• A Flowering stage grow room.

• Sufficient lighting (florescent lights, CFL's, High Pressure Sodium, Metal Halide, L.E.D., Sulphur Plasma, any of these lighting sources will work.

• Proper ventilation.

(A young Super Skunk clone in vegetative growth. You can grow one out like this and clone it 8 times to be on your way to a harvest a week!)
1. Start a batch of at least 9 seeds, or preferably a batch of 9 clones in the vegetative grow room. Growers prefer florescent or metal halide lighting in the vegetative room because the spectrum of lighting these types of lights produces mimics the spring and summer spectrum of the sun outdoors. This promotes healthy growth, with minimal stretching (as long as the light is as close to the plants as possible without burning the actual plant). Whatever your medium you grow in, make sure the environment is like the outdoors, with the plants having a constant supply of co2 when the lights are on. Vegetative stages of marijuana plants mean they have a constant supply of light either 24 hours on, or 18 hours on 6 hours of darkness.
2. When the plants have passed the germination stage and are growing in the vegetative stage, the grower has the option to put them in the flowering stage whenever they deem the plants are big enough to produce enough medicine. Grow the plant to desired size, and when it's ready to flower put the desired plant (singular) into the flowering chamber.


(I could flower this plant, but I want to clone it first.)
3. In the flowering chamber, the light schedule dictates that the plants will have less light during the 24 hour day to build their reproductive parts. Growers prefer High Pressure Sodium bulbs or florescent with more of a orange spectrum. The orange spectrum mimics the sun during the fall and late summer. The sun sets faster and faster towards fall which makes outdoors darker for longer over time. The flowering chamber usually has the lights on for 12 hours, and then 12 hours of lights off. This is when the plants produce their flowers.


(Early flowering (about 4 weeks to be exact)).
4. If you have one plant in the flowering chamber and 8 plants in the vegetative chamber, then you can always have one "mother plant" in the vegetative room to make clones off of. With the other 7 plants, however, you will put one plant in the flowering room every week, and also taking a clone every week to replace the clone you just sent to flower. One plant in, one plant out. As long as you have a mother that you can take clones off of, then you can have a perpetual harvest. Just make sure the mother plant has more room for her roots, so she can produce hearty, big clones. Whether you do hydro, or soil make sure she has a lot of room to grow.


(A plant minutes before it was harvested.)

TIPS:

• Make SURE that all of your plants are female. Male plants produce pollen and impregnate females to make seeds. Females produce pistils which are found where the branches original growing location is. They are little white hairs that tell you the plant is female. If you see pollen sacks (balls) developing, then you need to take them away from the females. If you are choosing to breed, do it in a separate room away from the sensi flowers.

• Be secure, be safe.

• Have proper ventilation.

• Make sure the plants have an adequate amount of co2 to breathe through their stomata (pores under the leaves).

• Make sure both rooms are on a strict, unchanging lighting schedule, and that no light gets in when it is the dark period for the plants.

(All photos in this article are from TehBosh)

Make fantastic brownies with cannabis!

SUPPLIES NEEDED:
• A fine mesh strainer.
• Baking pan.
• Your favorite store brand brownie mix that uses oil (not butter).
• Measuring cup.
• Cooking oil.
• Whatever ingredients your brownie mix you chose calls for.
• 4-15 grams of crushed dried marijuana.

1. The first step to making your brownies is to make your cannabis oil. You will mix this oil into the brownie mix along with the other ingredients it calls for (eggs, oil and mix). If the mix calls for 1 1/4 cup of oil, then pour that amount (or whatever amount that is needed) into a pot over a stove and put the heat on low. You want the oil to heat up to a slow simmer (few bubbles coming up).

2.Once the oil is heated to a simmer, pour your dried crushed herb into the oil. Stir occasionally and let it cook for 30-45 minutes. If you simmer it longer, more THC will be extracted making your oil more potent.

3. Use this type of strainer to separate the oil and cooked plant matter.
The herb should look brown indicating that it's been cooked and the essential ingredients have been extracted correctly. With your fine mesh strainer, put it over your measuring cup. Pour the pot of oil and herb over the strainer to filter the cooked plant matter and the actual oil.

4. After the oil has been thoroughly strained, mix it with the other ingredients that the brownie mix calls for and mix it well. Make sure the mix is thick and creamy, not runny.

5. Use a pan like this. You can also use glass pans and square pans.

Pour your mix into a baking pan and put it in the oven. Most brownie mixes call for the oven to be at least 350 degrees Fahrenheit and to let them bake for at least 15 minutes. Whatever you brownie mix dictates on the box, follow those directions.

6. After you followed your mix's directions, pull the brownies out, let cool and enjoy.

TIPS:

• You don't have to use oil to make these kind of brownies. You can use brownies that require butter instead of oil and use cannabutter. This tutorial is for the brownies that call for a oil in its mix.

(All photos in this article are from images.google.com)

Clone marijuana for constant harvests!

MATERIALS REQUIRED:
* Scissors or a razor blade or both.
* Rooting hormone (Gel or powder).
* Small growing medium container. Either soil, or whatever you use.
* Something to poke hole in medium for clone to go in. A small thin paintbrush will do, or a small pen or pencil.

1. Get all your supplies ready and sanitized. You don't want the plant to get infected where you make the cut because it might not root and die.

2. Find a good spot on the plant to make a clone. Don't clone just a fan leaf. You need to clone growth where it is new and young, with at least two sets of fan leaves. The lower on the plant the clone is taken, the better chance to have it root faster. You can take clones off of near tops of plants, but they will take a little longer to root. Take your razor blade and make a 45 degree angled cut so you can give the base of the clone more room to have its roots grow.

3. Make sure the cutting is big enough and make sure there is enough surface area at the bottom of the stem to grow enough root mass.

4. To give the clone more chance to root, take your razor blade and make a small incision down the middle of the bottom of the stem going up towards the top. Only go about one inch, but this will give more area for the clone to root. This is also optional, you don't need to do this to have a successfully rooted clone.

5. Put it in a glass of water as soon as the cut is made to make sure no air gets to the rooting area.

6. When ready to dip into rooting powder or gel, make sure you are careful and dip the bottom of the plant into the rooting hormone. Make sure to cover the area with enough hormone so it can root. Once dipped, flick the plant or blow off the excess powder or gel.

7. Poke a hole in the soil or whatever medium you're using down the middle of the container. Make sure to make the hole at least 2 inches in depth, but no more than 6 (or however tall your cutting is). Place the bottom of the plant with the hormone on into the hole in the medium. Make sure to pack the stem in the medium nice and firm, and then water to saturate the medium. Also, pack more after to make sure it's firmly in place. MAKE SURE there are no air pockets in the soil where your clone is trying to root. Pack it down and all around.

TIPS:

• Practice cloning and you will be able to make cutting after cutting to give yourself a constant supply of medicine.
• Clones don't need a lot of light to root. In fact they prefer less light than a standard vegetative room gives. One 23 watt CFL could root many clones.
• You don't have to put a humidity dome over the clones, but it helps retain humidity and helps root them. As long as the root area and the medium is at a constant good level of moisture, then they will root.
• Always make sure you're working in a clean environment and you're working with clean equipment at all times.
• Be careful with sharp razor blades because they will cut you easily.
• Don't over water to make the medium soggy, because bacterial growth that is not good for your plants will occur.

GOOD LUCK!
(Photo credits to Cranky of gardenscure.com)